Amiga Plus 1995 #2

home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search

/ Amiga Plus 1995 #2 / Amiga Plus CD - 1995 - No. 2.iso / internet / faq / englisch / rec.pets.dogs-kennelclubusa < prev next >

Wrap

Text File | 1995-04-11 | 75.3 KB | 1,533 lines

Archive-name: dogs-faq/kennel-clubs/AKC Last-modified: 29 Nov 1994 ======= The latest versions of these FAQ's may be found via the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/homepage.html. The multiple parts of the FAQ are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu (18.181.0.24) in the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq. The files are: introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care, breeding, medical-info/part1, medical-info/part2, training, behavior, obedience, activities/flyball, working, service, kennel-clubs/AKC, misc/part1, misc/part2, publications and resources. To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and look under that directory. If ftp does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/getting-a-dog send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-puppy send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-dog send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeding send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info/part1 send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info/part2 send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/behavior send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/activities/flyball send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/obedience send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/service send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/kennel-clubs/AKC send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part1 send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part2 send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/publications send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/resources send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1 send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2 in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty). If you don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want. You do have to repeat the path information for each file. There is a FAQ dealing with the grief of losing a pet. It is generalized for all pets, and is archived at rtfm.mit.edu under /pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/pet-loss, or "sent usenet/news.answers/pets/pet-loss" to the mail-server. Finally, there is a FAQ on fleas and ticks. It is not included with the dog FAQs because it is generalized for dogs AND cats. However, it is also archived at rtfm.mit.edu, under /pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks for ftp, or "send usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks" to the mail-server. ========== AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB Notes: need Agility requirements. Earth Dog requirements. _________________________________________________________________ Table of Contents * Preface * Showing * Junior Showmanship * Conformation * Obedience * Agility * Field Trials * Hunting Tests * Tracking * Herding * Lurecoursing * Earth Dog Trials * Canine Good Citizen * Titles * AKC Member Clubs * Entering the World of Showing and Breeding * The AKC Telephone Directory _________________________________________________________________ Preface Note that the AKC has regulations covering every aspect of show rings, trials, field events, junior showmanship, etc. For booklets on these regulations, you may write to the AKC and ask for them. They will send you the first booklet free and charge 50 cents per booklet for more than one in a single request. The booklets are sized to fit in a #10 envelope; while the AKC doesn't require a SASE, you will probably get a quicker response with one. Write to AKC at 51 Madison, New York, New York, 10010. Alternatively if you attend a local dog show, some of these booklets may be freely available, usually the showing and obedience regulations. _________________________________________________________________ Showing When people think of "showing," they are usually thinking of conformation showing. However, "showing" actually comprises showing your dog under any of three categories: conformation (meeting physical standards), field (meeting working standards), or obedience (meeting obedience standards). All AKC-recognized breeds are eligible to show under conformation and obedience. Field trials are reserved for those breeds bred for such work, except for the tracking trials which are open to all, and are tailored to the type of work bred for: e.g., hunting, retrieving, pointing, herding, and coursing. To start showing requires an investment of time, money, and contacts. But it is a richly rewarding area, and there are hundreds of thousands of people throughout the world who enjoy competing with their dogs under Kennel Club auspices. This article details the titles and events offered by the American Kennel Club, although many other kennel clubs exist, and may eventually be detailed in their own FAQs. For showing in the AKC, the only pre-requirement is that the dog be registered with the AKC (either litter registration, individual registration, or ILP), and be at least 6 months old the day of the trial. Shots should be current for your own dog's health. If the showing is in conformation, the dog must also be sexually intact. INDEFINITE LISTING PRIVILEGE If your dog is or appears to be (AKC-recognized) purebred but is unregistered or your dog is a breed currently in AKC's Miscellaneous Class, you can get an ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) number to do anything but conformation and field work. The procedure for getting an ILP is as follows: * Write to the AKC for a form. * Fill out the form -- it asks what the history of the dog is, where you got it, why you think it is pure-bred. Eg, a breeder's opinion that the dog is purebred, it was rescued through a breed rescue club, etc. * Take two pictures of your dog -- one side shot standing, one front shot standing. * Have your dog neutered. This is required for all dogs that are applying for ILPs except for those in the Miscellaneous class. Include the veterinarian's certificate of neutering in with the application. * Mail the form, pictures, and certificate of neutering along with your check. If your dog isn't purebred or is a breed not recognized by AKC, you can still get titles through breed-specific, rare-breed, alternative kennel clubs, or mixed-breed clubs like Mutt's of America or Mix-breeds of America (there are others). These clubs hold their own obedience trials (usually modeled after the AKC obedience trials). For example, AMBOR (American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry), at 205 First Street SW, New Prague, MN 56071, offers obedience and other titles to mixed breed and rare breed dogs with the UKC. UKC and SKC often recognize breeds that the AKC does not, and the UKC has a special program to allow mixed breed dogs to compete in performance trials. NAMING AND REGISTRATION A dog's registered name must meet the following criteria (from "AKC Policies And Guidelines for Registration Matters") * Name length is limited to 25 characters, not including spaces, apostrophes and hyphens. * Letters in the name are restricted to the standard English alphabet; apostrophes, hyphens, and spaces are the only punctuation that appear in a dog's name. The certificate will be printed in all upper case. * Lifetime kennel names and registered name prefixes cannot be used without the consent of the owner of the name. * No arabic numbers, no Roman numerals at the end of the name. * A limit of 37 dogs in one breed may have the same name. * AKC reserves the right to append Roman numerals to the end of a name for identification purposes. * Spelled out cardinal and ordinal numbers may be used (e.g., First, One, Two, Third, etc). * The name may not contain "Champion," "Champ," "Sieger," or any other show term/AKC title, spelled or abbreviated. * Obscenities or derogatory words may not be used. * "Kennel," "dog," "male," "sire," "stud," "bitch," "dam," and "female" may not appear in the name. * The name may not consist of the breed name alone. * Names of living or recently dead persons may not be used. * An imported dog must be registered under the same name that it was registered in its country of birth. All names are subject to AKC approval. Names may not be changed unless the AKC has made a mistake and the dog has not yet been bred or earned any titles. _________________________________________________________________ Junior Showmanship Junior showmanship is for children under 18 and over [10?] years of age. They need a junior handler number before starting. Write to the AKC for the number. How the child handles the dog is judged, not the dog itself. It helps if the kid has a dog that knows what they're doing in the conformation ring, but any AKC-registered dog over 6 months can be used, including neutered and ILP dogs. Match classes that teach kids how to handle are available. Junior showmanship is broken up into groups. Junior is for kids at least 10 and under 14, senior for kids at least 14 and under 18. Furthermore, there are novice groups, which are for children who have not won three first in novice, and open is for those who have. _________________________________________________________________ Conformation When showing a dog in conformation, either you or a professional hander must "show" the dog in the ring. Whether or not you choose to use a handler can depend on the breed of dog you are showing: it can be hard to break into popular breeds and a handler can help gain recognition; with a rare or less popular breed, the choice of handler is not as crucial. If you co-own a dog with the breeder, they may handle your dog for you. If you handle your own dogs, then like any "sport," as an amateur, you need to be trained, prepared, and ready to compete with the pros. Take the time to learn the ropes, how to present your dogs, and how to groom. Ideally, you should find a mentor to help you learn what you need to know. A Champion must obtain 15 points. Of those 15 points, two majors (a show where 3, 4, or 5 points are won) must be obtained under two different judges. The remaining points can come from 1 or 2 (or more!) point shows; at least one of these must be from a third judge. A dog must win at least the Winners Dog (WD) or Winners Bitch (WB) to win points. Therefore, even if your dog wins a class, it doesn't necessarily get points. It's only the WD or WB within a breed in competition that is awarded points. You don't get anything for second place, but a ribbon, some recognition as an upcoming hopeful, and some experience. Reserve Winners (one for WD and one for WB) *may* get points if the winner of their sex is later disqualified. This can happen if the dog is improperly entered (into the wrong class, for example). So reserve wins can be important. The Reserve will only replace the Winner's position: if the disqualified Winner went on to win higher places, those are not awarded to the Reserve (but they are still removed from the disqualified dog). Reserve to a Winner is chosen from the dogs remaining from that Winners competition, plus the dog that received second place in the class the Winners Dog or Bitch came from. Specials are Champions; they do not normally compete in the classes, although they may. Entering a special into one of the classes is known as "padding" (to bring the number of dogs up enough for major points) and is not normally done. Specials usually compete directly for BOB/BOS along with the WD and WB in the Best of Breed competition that is held after WD/WB is selected from the classes. While they are not awarded points if they win, many breed clubs award national ratings to dogs based on the total number of dogs of the same breed that the dog has won over for a calendar year. Each club calculates the ratings slightly differently although there are some standard formulas. Best of Winners picks up the greater of the points that WD/WB has. This means that it's possible for a WD that got a 1 point minor to pick up the 3 point major that the WB got if he is awarded BOW over the WB (the WB retains her 3 point major). Not every show will select a BOW. Best of Breed (BOB) calculates its points based on the points available from adding all the dogs in the classes with all the specials, or all the bitches in the classes with all the specials, whichever gives you the greater number of points. The points are actually only awarded if the WD/WB is selected BOB. Best of Opposite Sex (BOS) calculates its points based on the number of dogs or bitches in the classes, plus all the specials that are the same sex as BOS, whichever combination gives you the greater number of points. Again, these points are only awarded to the BOS if that dog was the WD or WB. Thus, a 1 or 2 point show can turn into a major depending on how high your dog goes. Group winners are chosen from the BOB and BOS from each breed within the group (all dogs are grouped into Toy, Sporting, Working, etc. groups): Group I is first place, Group II second place and so on. Dogs that go on to win Best In Show will get as many points as any dog they defeat, if those points total more than what they have garnered so far (but never for more than a total of five points). But the only dogs that are actually awarded points are the dogs that were initially Winners Dog or Winners Bitch for their breed. Therefore, specials or veterans do not get points no matter how many dogs they won over, which makes sense as they are already Champions and do not need the points. The number of points obtained at a particular show is dependent on the number of dogs or bitches present, the breed, and the geographical location of the show. There is a point schedule that determines the ranges: rarer breeds require fewer dogs for points whereas popular breeds must have more dogs present for the same points. Keep in mind that the next new show and the next new judge may pick the second place dog over the first place dog under the same conditions that the other dog won under. Different judges have different preferences in conformation, It's usually better to try and show under a judge that likes what your dog has to offer in strong points. Other judges may see something else in other dogs that they prefer over what your dog has. A year later or the next show, that same judge may like your dog better. It depends on how the dog is "showing" each day. Dogs have good and bad days like people do. A short chart: Best of Breed (points toward CH from greater points | from either sex of class dogs including | all specials, if also WD/WB) | Best of Opposite Sex (points toward CH from greater points | from either sex of class dogs plus | specials of same sex, if also WD/WB) | (WD/WB, Specials and Veterans compete for BOB/BOS) | Best of Winners (points toward CH taken from WD/WB, / \ whichever had more points) / \ Winner's dog Winner's bitch (points towards CH from / \ same sex group) / \ (first in each class advances to Winner's competition) Open class Open class American Bred American Bred Bred by Exhibitor Bred by Exhibitor Novice Novice Dogs (12-18 mo.) Bitches (12-18 mo.) (new class) Puppy dogs (9-12 mo.) Puppy bitches (9-12 mo.) (split in puppy Puppy dogs (6-9 mo.) Puppy bitches (6-9 mo.) classes optional) The classes are as follows: Open is for any dog, and very often winners will be chosen from this class. Not always, but usually. Open classes may be broken up depending on how many dogs are showing that day. For example, Labradors sometimes have Open Yellow, Open Black, and Open Chocolate; Dobermans might have Open Black and Open Red. American Bred is for those dogs born in the USA. This class is often used if the handler has another dog in Open already. Bred by Exhibitor class is often considered a prestigious class particularly at specialties -- breeders show their own dogs here, and winning WD/WB from this class is usually highly prized by breeders. Novice class is for those dogs that have not yet won a class and is used for practice with dogs that are too old for the puppy divisions. The puppy classes (6-9/9-12/12-18) are usually for practice for young dogs although WD/WB can certainly come from these classes. The puppy classes may or many not be split among the three age groups and the 12-18 group may or may not be present at all; it depends on how many dogs are present. A specialty is a dog show devoted to one particular breed. Both breed and obedience classes are usually offered. STANDARDS "How do you develop an eye for the 'perfect dog' in your breed?" Books are actually a good way, especially one with lots of color photos. Going to specialty shows is another a good way Talking to breeders and looking at what they point out on dogs is yet another way. Most people develop an eye over several years of study. Find a good breeder to help you at first. Make some friends or pick a breeder you get along with and become "a little lost puppy" and follow them. Don't talk much, listen a lot more than you talk, and be respectful of them. They are really more likely to want to help you if you do flatter them just a little, but be honest about what you do and don't like. You can always learn something, and you never stop learning! (Be sure to stay out of the way when they or their dog is about to go in the ring.) ESTIMATED COSTS If you use a handler, a CH on your dog will easily cost you about $5000. If you handle the dog yourself and only go to local shows, it's more like $2000. However, you may need to travel some to get to the bigger or specialty shows in order to get the majors or different judges, depending on how popular your breed is and the show circuit in your area. It's the fun you have with your dogs doing all these things that is the real reward. FINDING OUT WHERE SHOWS ARE AND ENTERING If you subscribe to the AKC Gazette, you also get a monthly Events Calendar that lists dates, places, superintendants, judges, etc. for all the AKC events (including Regional and National Specialties), including obedience, field, and herding trials. Each issue covers the next three months for the US. This magazine is available by subscription only. Subscription Information - (212) 696-8226. Most show superintendents are happy to put you on their mailing lists and send you premiums of upcoming shows. Dog World Magazine also lists both AKC and SKC events. Subscription Information - P.O. Box 6500, Chicago, IL 60680. Breed specific shows (specialties) are also advertised in breed-specific magazines; if the breed club is affiliated with the AKC, it will be listed in the Gazette. If you get the AKC Gazette, you'll get a show listing and some entry forms. You'll also get instruction in the booklet on how to fill out and send in forms (also where). That's all there is to entering. _________________________________________________________________ Obedience Note that obedience trialling has its own FAQ that discusses the general sport of Obedience in much more detail. Below is a simple summary of the exercises required in the three obedience classes offered by the AKC. NOVICE There are two classes, Novice A and Novice B, the former for people who have not put a Companion Dog (CD) on a dog before, the latter for people who have. To get a CD, a dog must qualify in three different Novice shows under three different judges; qualification is at least 170 out of 200 points and at least half the points on every exercise. OPEN Open A and Open B are for dogs that have obtained their CD's. Open A is for dogs that do not have a CDX, and handlers that have not earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Open B. Open B is an OTCH competition class; dogs with CDX's, UD's, or OTCH's may compete. Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores (at least 170/200) under three different judges gets the Companion Dog Excellent (CDX). UTILITY Utility A and B are for dogs that have obtained their CDX's. Utility A is for dogs that have not obtained a UD, and handlers that have not earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Utility B. Utility B is the other OTCH competition class; dogs with UD's or OTCH's appear there. Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores under three different judges gets the Utility Dog title (UD). Note that Novice, Open, and Utility are not competitive in the sense that any of the entered dogs may earn legs. However, it is competitive in the sense that the top three or four scores will get ribbons/prizes. OTCH Obedience Trial Champion. A competitive title earned after the UD. Championship points are awarded to those dogs earning a First or Second place ribbon in the Open B or Utility/Utility B class according to the schedule established by the AKC. For the OTCH, the dog must have 100 points, have won First place in Utility/Utility B with at least three other dogs in competition, have won First in Open B with at least six dogs in competition, another First place in Open B/Utility/Utility B under the same conditions. Each of the first places must be won from different judges. Neither of the first places may be earned at a specialty obedience trial. NOVICE EXERCISES * Heeling on leash; this involves starts and stops, left and right turns, and fast and slow walking. The dog is supposed to stay with you at all times (head or shoulder next to your leg). Figure 8 on leash; there are two stops, dog has to stay with you with no forging (going ahead) or lagging (falling behind). 40 points. * Off-leash Stand for examination: your dog has to stand still while the judge examines the head, neck and back, approximately. You are standing at least 6 ft away. 30 points. * Repeat of first heeling exercise (not figure 8 part) but without leash. 40 points. * Recall and finish: Dog sits about 30 ft. away. You call dog and it comes briskly to you and sits. On command it then goes around into a heel pattern sit. 30 points. * Group exercise. About 10-12 dogs together go in and line up on one end. Handlers sit their dogs and go to the opposite side. This is the long sit, lasting for 1 minute. Then handlers down their dogs and do the same for 3 minutes. Long sit is 30 points, long down is 30 points. OPEN EXERCISES * Heel Free and Figure Eight. Like Novice, except no lead. 40 points. * Drop on Recall. Like Novice recall, except you signal or command your dog to down when the judge tells you to. The dog must stay in the down until you tell it to come again. 30 points. * Retrieve on Flat. You tell the dog to stay, and throw your dumbbell at least 20 feet away. You then send your dog; it must go directly to the dumbbell, bring it back, and sit in front of you to deliver it. You take the dumbbell and then do a finish. 20 points. * Retrieve over High Jump. Like the Retrieve on Flat, except the dog has to jump the high jump on the way out and on the way back. 30 points. * Broad Jump. You put your dog in a stay at least eight feet behind the jump. You then walk to the side of the jump, face the jump, and send your dog over it. While it's in the air, you turn 90 degrees so your dog can come to a sit in front of you. Then you do a finish. 20 points. * Group exercise. Same as Novice, except handlers are out of sight for the stays, and the sit and down stay are three minutes and five minutes long, respectively. 30 points each. UTILITY EXERCISES * Signal Exercise. You do an off-lead heeling pattern, with signals only (no voice). In addition, on the judges command, you signal your dog to stand and stay, and then from across the ring you signal your dog to down, sit, come, and then finish. 40 points. * Scent Discrimination. You have two sets of five identical articles, one set of leather and one of metal. You out pick one of each; the rest are set out in a group, at random, about six inches from each other. You and your dog turn your backs on the pile, and you scent one of the articles and give it to the judge, who puts it out with the rest. You turn and send your dog to the pile, who has to pick out the one you scented and retrieve it as in the Retrieve on Flat. You then repeat the exercise with the other article. 30 points. * Directed Retrieve. You have three (mostly) white cotton work gloves. You stand with your back turned to a side of the ring that is clear of equipment, with your dog in heel position. The gloves are placed one in each corner and one in the center along that side of the ring. The gloves are numbered one, two, three from left to right as you face them. The judge tells you which glove to get, and you and your dog pivot in place to (hopefully) face that glove. You then give a verbal command and signal to your dog to retrieve the glove, as in Retrieve on Flat. 30 points. * Moving Stand and Examination. You heel your dog about ten feet, and then command the dog to stand-stay without stopping. You continue about ten feet and then turn to face your dog. The judge examines the dog with his hands as in breed judging (note this is more thorough than Novice) except he does not examine the dog's teeth or testicles. You then call your dog directly to heel position. 30 points. * Directed jumping. There are two jumps midway across the ring, about 20 feet apart. One is a high jump, as in Open, and one is a bar jump. You are about 20 feet away from the jumps, on the center line of the ring. You send your dog down the center line of the ring (between the jumps). When the dog is about 20 feet past the jumps, you tell it to sit. Then you command and/or signal the dog to take one of the jumps (the judge tells you which). The dog must jump the jump, come to you, and sit in front. (While it is in midair you turn towards it.) Then you do a finish. You then repeat the exercise with the other jump. 40 points. OTHER OBEDIENCE TRIALS There are brace classes, for a pair of dogs, that perform exercises out of novice. There are also veteran classes, for dogs at least eight years old with an obedience title, doing exercises out of novice. A versatility class, that takes two exercises each from the novice, open, and utility trials, also exists. Finally, there is a team class, a pair of people, each with a pair of dogs, using exercises from novice. There are often fun matches which are set up just like the regular trials, but they don't count the score towards the title, and you may correct in the ring. Many people use matches as a way to acclimatize their dog to the ring. There are also some non-scoring categories like Pre-Novice, again to help dogs acclimatize to the atmosphere. _________________________________________________________________ Agility The AKC just approved and implemented AKC Agility trials in the summer of 1994. There are three titles obtainable: Novice Agility Dog (NAD), Open Agility Dog (OAD), and Agility Dog Excellent (ADE). _________________________________________________________________ Field Trials Field Trials have been around as long as conformation trials. Conformation and Field Trials were originally used to evaluate both the conformation and performance of breeding stock. However, the competition in each has specialized and intensified to the extent that since about the '50s, there have been very few dual champions compared with prior to that time, and almost none in the Retriever FIeld trials. This happened to the Kennel Club of Great Britain as well, so the problem is not necessarily due to the AKC itself. RETRIEVERS The dog must win a National Championship stake or a total of 10 points. The points must be won in one of three stakes: Open All-Age, Limited All-Age, or Special All-Age stake. There must be at least 12 starters. Dogs get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point for third place, and .5 point for fourth place. At least five of the points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a specialty trial) and the dog has to win at least one first place. To win a retriever Amateur Field Championship: The dog must win a National Championship stake handled by an amateur, win a National Amateur Championship stake, or a total of 10 points in Open All-Age, Limited All-Age, or Special All-Age Stakes (amateur handled). Or they can win 15 points in any All-Age stake (amateur handled). Again, dogs get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point for third place, and .5 point for fourth place. Again, at least five of the points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a specialty trial) and the dog has to win a first place. _________________________________________________________________ Hunting Tests The difference between field trials and hunting tests is that while field trials compete dogs against one another in their marking, finding, and retrieving ability, dogs in the hunting tests are measured against a standard of performance. Potentially all dogs in a hunting test may successfully complete a leg toward their title. Hunting tests were created in response to charges that field trials had become specialized to the point where not only did the tests not really resemble actual hunting situations, but only an elite few professionals could really do well in it. People wanted a means of simply evaluating the overall hunting ability of their dogs. As it turned out, there were a set of hunting tests that were created in the mid 1980's: UKC put together the Hunting Retriever Club at about the same time, and NAHRA's program was also started then. The details differ for all three programs, of course, but the overall goal of replicating actual hunting situations is the same goal of all the programs. In the AKC, there are separate hunting tests for retrieving breeds, pointing breeds, and spaniels. Note that many breed clubs have "working certificates" available for their dogs, although these are not official AKC titles, they are often a great way to get started. AKC HUNTING TESTS FOR POINTING BREEDS My thanks to Charlie Sorsby for the information in this section. From the AKC pamphlet: "The purpose of the AKC Hunting Tests is comparison of bird dogs against a standard, not competition against each other. A dog must be AKC registered in order to receive any AKC Hunting Test title. In the following, "Hunting Test" means an AKC licensed or member club hunting test. In order to be awarded the Junior Hunter title, a dog must have received Qualifying scores in four (4) Junior Hunting Tests. To be recorded as a Senior Hunter, a dog must either qualify in five (5) Senior Hunting Tests or must have earned a Junior Hunter title and qualify in four (4) Senior Hunting Tests. To be recorded as a Master Hunter, a dog must either qualify in six (6) Master Hunting Tests or must have earned a Junior Hunter title and qualify in five (5) Master Hunting Tests. Dogs that have received a Qualifying score in a Hunting Test at any level are ineligible to enter any Hunting Test at a lower level." Dogs taking the Junior Hunting Test must demonstrate a keen desire to hunt, show ability to find and point birds, be trainable. They cannot be gun-shy. They may be restrained to prevent interference with another dog. Dogs taking the Senior Hunting Test must do the same things demanded of a junior hunting dog, but with definite improvement. They must also hold their point until the bird has been shot or they are released. They must retrieve a shot bird but need not deliver to hand. They must initially honor another dog's point. And those dogs taking the Master Hunting Test must do the same things as Senior hunter, but show more experience. In addition must also show intensity and staunchness of the point, without breaking. Must deliver to hand. They must demonstrate absolute honoring throughout the entire flush, shot and retrieve. Qualifying on a particular hunting test is referred to as "getting a wing" toward the title. AKC HUNTING TESTS FOR RETRIEVING BREEDS The Junior Hunter test requires two single marks on land and two single marks on water. This means a bird ("single") is thrown and shot while the dog is watching ("marking"). The dog will promptly retrieve the bird upon command from handler. Two of these birds are thrown on land, and the other two are thrown into water. The distance the dog covers to get the bird should never be more than 100 yards. The dog has to deliver the bird to hand, meaning that he cannot drop the bird, and the handler must take it from his mouth. The team is penalized if the dog mouths or injures the bird, or does not want to give the bird up to the handler, etc. The handler may hold the dog steady as it marks the single. The Senior Hunter test requires: * a double mark on land and a double mark on water * one walkup * one honor * one land blind and one water blind * one diversion A double mark is when one bird is thrown and then a second bird also thrown before the dog is sent to get a bird. Typically, the dog is sent first to get the second bird (the "select"), and then is sent to get the first bird (the "memory"). The dog is not supposed to try to pick both birds up at once nor should it "switch" (pick one bird up and then drop it for the other). Sometimes the dog may go for the memory bird first and then the select; this is penalized somewhat here, and more heavily in the Master test. At this point, the dog is supposed to be "steady" and not go racing off for the bird until told to do so by the handler. In a walkup, the bird is thrown while the handler and dog are walking. The dog is not supposed to bolt off to go get it. Honoring is when the dog watches another dog go pick up a bird without breaking and trying to get it himself. A blind is when the dog does not see the bird fall and has to take directions from the handler to go out and find the bird. Typically, the dog has been trained to go out in the direction indicated by the handler, to turn and sit, facing the handler upon hearing a single whistle blast, and to take corrections in direction from then. Two whistles tells the dog to come back in. A diversion is when another bird is thrown while the dog is in the middle of retrieving another bird. In the Master Hunter test, one finds: * Multiple marks on land, multiple marks on water * One walkup * At least one combination mark * One land blind, one water blind * One double blind * One honor * One walkup * One diversion Multiple marks are three or more birds thrown before the dog is sent out to retrieve each in sequence. A combination mark is where the dog goes out on land, to water, to land again before reaching the bird. A double blind involves two placed birds and the handler directs the dog out to each of them in turn. Master Hunter tests are usually in pretty tough conditions -- gut sucking mud, waist high grass, etc. AKC HUNTING TESTS FOR SPANIELS Junior Hunter: dog must find, flush, and have an opportunity to retrieve 2 birds on land. In addition, one bird must be retrieved from water at a distance of at least 20 yards with a shot fired. Distances over water should not exceed those normally encountered in hunting. Senior Hunter: dog must find, flush, and retreive 2 birds to hand on land. In addition the dog must be linesteady at water and retreive one bird to hand from water at a distance of at least 25 yards with a shot fired. A Senior hunting dog must also exhibit ability to 'hunt dead' on a land blind of at least 15 yards distance. Master Hunter: Same as senior hunter for land retrieves, water retrieve is at least 30 yards. Also, required is a blind water retrieve of at least 30 yards, and the 'hunt dead' on land as well. Dog must qualify at least 4 times (4 different trials) in order to earn the title. The 2 judges score 0-10 on the following categories: * Hunting ability (which includes desire, courage, perseverance, independence and intelligence). * Bird Finding Ability (which includes bird sense, response to wind and scenting conditions, and use of nose). * Flushing Ability (boldness) * Trained Ability (which include range, pattern, gun response, response to commands). * Retrieving Ability (which includes marking, enthusiasm, and mouth). A qualifying score is a minimum average of not less than 5 on each of the categories of abilities listed, with an overall average score of not less than 7. _________________________________________________________________ Tracking Tracking tests are actually considered an obedience test rather than a performance test. This is because tracking was originally part of the Utility exercises. I'm not sure when it was split off from obedience into its own set of tracking tests and when the TDX was added. For tracking tests in general, the tracking leash is between 20 and 40 feet in length, and is visibly marked at a point 20 feet from the dog; the handler is to follow the dog at no less than 20 feet. Guiding (behavior by the handler which influences or determines the dog's direction) isi prohibited. Handlers may give verbal commands and encouragement to the dog. However, commands, signals or body motions to indicate the specific location or track direction is prohibited. Motivational items (food, balls, toys, etc) are not to be used or carried within 75 yards of a track. TD: TRACKING DOG To enter a TD test, dogs must be at least 6 months old and be certified. Certification (which is obtained by the dog passing a regulation track for an AKC Tracking judge) must take place within a year of the test date. This is because the tests are particularly hard to set up and time consuming and the certification weeds out those dogs truly not ready for the test. Each individual track is 440 to 500 yards long, and is aged from 30 minutes to 2 hours. It is rare for tracks to be aged more than 1 hour. Three to five turns are present, at least 2 of which are 90 degree turns. Each leg of the track is at least 50 yards in length, and the first turn is more than 30 yards from the second of two starting flags (which are themselves 30 yards apart). TDX: TRACKING DOG EXCELLENT The purpose of the TDX test is to "show that the dog unquestionably that the dog has the ability to discriminate scent and possesses the stamina, perserverance, and courage to do so under a wide variety of conditions. ... It [the track] can lead anywhere a person might go." A TDX test track is 800 to 1000 yards long, and three to five hours old. It has five to seven turns, and the first turn is open. The start consists of one flag (you and your dog get to figure out which way it goes). There are at least two obstacles (roads, streams, fences, changes in terrain, changes in vegetation, etc.), and there are two pairs of cross tracks that are approximately 1 1/2 hours fresher than the primary track. There are also four articles, all of which must be found -- one at the start, two along the way, and one at the end. _________________________________________________________________ Herding My thanks to Lily Mummert for the information in this section. In general, for herding tests: * Dogs have to be 9 months old to compete in AKC herding events. * A dog is not required to have an HT before competing in Pre-Trial, or to have either test title before competing in trial classes. Testing is recommended, however. * Not all herding events are listed in the Gazette currently, but an updated list is sent out with each issue of the Herdsman (the AKC herding newsletter). The reason the info isn't in the Gazette is because of its long lead time. The AKC is trying to modify the publication schedule of the events calendar so they can get herding event info in there in a more timely fashion. TITLES HT: Herding Tested PT: Pre-trial Tested HS: Herding Started HI: Herding Intermediate HX: Herding Excellent HCH: Herding Trial Champion Test classes: herding and pre-trial. These are pass/fail. If your dog passes two herding tests under two different judges, it earns the HT (Herding Tested) title. Similarly, the dog earns the PT (Pre-Trial Tested) for passing two pre-trial tests under two different judges. For both classes, you get 10 minutes to negotiate the course. Herding test elements: * a sit or down stay at the start, * controlled movement of the stock between two pylons, located at opposite ends of the ring. Includes two changes in direction. * stop and recall at the end Pre-trial test elements: * a stay at the start controlled movement of stock, including a change of direction and passage through four gates * a stop at some point on the course * a stop before penning the stock * penning the stock Trial classes: herding started, intermediate, and advanced. The titles associated with each of these levels are HS (Herding Started), HI (Herding Intermediate), and HX (Herding Excellent). For each of these titles, the dog must earn three qualifying scores in the appropriate class under three different judges. There's also the HCH (Herding Champion), which is a competition title -- the dog must have an HX, and then earn 15 championship points in the Advanced class. There are three courses that may be offered for each class. The premium list for a trial specifies which course(s) will be offered. Course A is in an arena. Course B is a modified ISDS course; it's in a field. Course C is a modified version of what is used in Europe; it includes negotiating roads and such. According to my instructors, Course A is the most widely used of the three, so I'll describe that one. You get 10 minutes on this course, regardless of class. For herding started, the dog lifts the stock at the top of the course, and moves them through four obstacles around the course in a predetermined order. The obstacles are chutes or gates of various kinds. The dog then pens the stock. For the intermediate class, there's an outrun, lift, and fetch, with the handler staying at a handler's post until the dog has passed the post (after the outrun, lift and fetch). One of the obstacles is a holding pen -- the dog has to move the stock into the pen and hold them there for about a minute. Then there's the pen at the end. Advanced has the same elements as intermediate, except the course is longer, and the handler's movement is more restricted. The other courses also get vastly complicated as you go from started to advanced. REFERENCES SHEEP! Magazine Rt. 1 Helenville WI 53137 The Working Border Collie, Inc. (bimonthly magazine) 14933 Kirkwood Road Sidney, Ohio 45365 (513) 492-2215 The Ranch Dog Trainer (magazine) Rt. 1, Box 21 Koshkonong MO 56592 Holmes, John. The Farmer's Dog. Order from SHEEP! Jones, H. Glyn. A Way of Life. Order from SHEEP! H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins. Karrasch, Dick. Training a Stockdog: For Beginners. Wondereye Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176. O'Reilly, Chuck. Training Working Livestock Dogs. Rt. 4, Box 33B, Red Wind MN 55066. Robertson, Pope. Anybody Can Do It. Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd St., Elgin TX 78621. Templeton, John and Matt Mundell. Working Sheep Dogs. Order from SHEEP! There are many videos listed in the back of the magazines. There is also a wide variety of breed specific books relative to the breed of dog you are interested in. Please write to the appropriate parent club for details. In addition, both the American Herding Breeds Association and the Australian Shepherd Club of America offer herding trials and their own titles. There is an electronic mailing list devoted to herding issues. Contact Terri Hardwick at herders-request@mcnc.org for information on how to join the list. _________________________________________________________________ Lurecoursing (prepared by Marcia Cavan with additional info from Carol Mount) A "lure" coursing course consists of a line strung through a series of wooden pulley set within a large field (many acres) with a "lure" (usually a white kitchen garbage bag!) attached at some point on the line. This line is also strung through a wheel that is attached to a power source usually a car starter motor as the lure needs to have enough power to be kept safely ahead of the fastest of the hounds. The hounds run within their own breed up to 3 per "heat" with each hound running and being scored on 2 heats. Each hound wears a blanket (similar to at the Greyhound track) of either yellow, pink or blue with the scoring being assigned to the blanket color and the performance it gave. The dogs are scored on the categories of speed, agility, endurance, follow and enthusiasm with a "perfect" score being 100. Up until 1992 only the American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA) held lure coursing field trials and awarded dogs titles. Dogs earn their F.Ch (Field Championship) running against other dogs of the same breed and receiving a certain number of 1st and 2nd placements AND a total of 100 points. The point scale is based on the number of dogs competing and on the placement the dog receives. Once they earn their ASFA F.Ch. they can then continue on to earn their LCM (Lure Courser of Merit) that requires four 1st placements over other Field Champions and a total of 300 points. There are then LCM II, III etc. titles The point system is: First place: 4*number of dogs upto 40 points Second place: 3*number of dogs upto 30 points Third Place: 2*number of dogs upto 20 Fourth: 1* number of dogs upto 10 Fifth (NBQ - Next best qualified) -- no points but recorded in case or error in 1-4 placements. If there are enough dogs in a given breed, the stakes are split and multiple placements (two first places, etc) are awarded. In 1992 the AKC accepted Lure Coursing as a sport and their titles are JC (Junior Courser) that requires a dog run alone on a 600 or so yard course two different times under 2 different judges. With this they can then run in AKC trials with competition and can earn their SC (Senior Courser) in 2 trials by completing the courses. Dogs that have an ASFA FCH do not need the JC title to run for SC. The AKC F.CH (that is a prefix to the dog's name versus a suffix for ASFA titles) is earned like a conformation championship where the dog is required to win 2 majors (wins worth at least 3 points) and a total a 15 points. Dog that achieve both conformation and field titles are noted as a Dual Champion (DC) Both ASFA and AKC have approved 11 breeds: Afghan, Basenji, Borzoi, Greyhound, Ibizan Hound, Irish Wolfhound, Pharaoh Hound, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Saluki, Scottish Deerhound and Whippet. SOME ADDRESSES AKC Coursing News Larry Flynn, editor R.D. 1 Box 1733 Stewartstown, PA 17363 AKC Coursing (in the New York Office) (212) 696-8276 CANFAN (CFSA) Linda Belleau RR #2 Nolalu ON POT 2KO, Canada Beaman, Arthur S. Lure Coursing: Field Trialing for Sighthounds and How to Take Part Howell Book House, 1994 (ISBN 0-87605-628- _________________________________________________________________ Earth Dog Trials The AKC has just approved Earth Dog Trials ("Go-To-Ground") for Terrier breeds in the summer of 1994. _________________________________________________________________ Canine Good Citizen This is not a title, but a certificate. However, many people add the initials CGC after the dog's name anyway. From the AKC pamphlet "The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate that the dog , as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner that will reflect credit on the dog. The Canine Good Citizen Test is not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal companions and as members in good standing with the community." Must demonstrate: * Test 1: Accepting a Friendly Stranger - This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no signs of resentment or shyness and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator. * Test 2: Sitting Politely for Petting - This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body only, then circles the dog and handler, completing the test. The dog must not show shyness or resentment. * Test 3: Appearance and Grooming - This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit a stranger, such as a veterinarian, groomer, or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern, and responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog, then combs or brushes the dog and lightly examines the ears and each front foot. * Test 4: Out for a Walk (Walking on a Loose Lead) - This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler, at the handler's preference. There must be a left turn, a right turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. * Test 5: Walking Through a Crowd - This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers without appearing overexuberant, shy, or resentful. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout this test. The dog should not be straining at the leash. * Test 6: Sit and Down on Command/Staying in Place - This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's command to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler in the sit or down position (whichever the handler prefers). The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to make the dog sit and then down. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of a 20-foot line. The dog must remain in place, but may change positions. * Test 7: Praise/Interaction - This test demonstrates that the dog can be easily calmed following play or praise and can leave the area of this test in a well-mannered fashion. The handler may use verbal praise, petting, playing with a toy and/or a favorite trick in the allowed 10 seconds of play, and then must calm the dog for the next test. * Test 8: Reaction to Another Dog - This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 10 yards, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about five yards. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. * Test 9: Reaction to Distractions - This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common sight and sound distractions, such as dropping a lrage book or a jogger running in front of the dog. The dog may express a natural interest and curiosity and may appear slightly startled, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. * Test 10: Supervised Isolation - This test demonstrates that a dog can be left alone, if necessary, and will maintain its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like "Would you like me to watch your dog while you make your call?" to add a touch of reality to the test and to accentuate the fact that leaving a dog tied and unsupervised is not condoned. The dog will be attached to a 6-foot line and does not have to stay in position, but should not continually bark, whine, howl, pace unnecessarily, or show any behavior other than mild agitation or nervousness. Currently, 1. AKC plans to expand and promote the test more. 2. They do have colors for qualifying ribbons: turquois and gold (but I have never seen these awarded: it's pretty much up to the club giving the test what they give out) 3. AKC is thinking about dog tags and/or wallet cards for qualifying. 4. AKC is going to advocate that dogs that have proven to be under control be allowed on leash in parks that don't allow dogs. 5. They are going to ask clubs to lobby their states to have the test recognized as a sign of a responsible owner. _________________________________________________________________ Titles DUAL OR TRIPLE CHAMPIONSHIPS Currently three titles awarded by the AKC go into making up the DCH and TCH titles. These are: CH - Champion of Record. OTCH - Obedience Trial Champion. FCH - Field Trial Champion. These three titles can be combined in the following manner: DCH - One of the following combinations: CH + OTCH, CH + FCH, OTCH + FCH TCH - CH + OTCH + FCH Any dog who is a DCH or especially a TCH is an outstanding representation of the breed. If the DCH is one half Champion of Record this is a dog that most breeders would give their eye teeth to breed to. NB: HCH is a very new title, so the AKC rule books have not yet come out detailing the possibly new combinations for dual and triple (and quadruple!) championships. The first dog of any breed to win a triple championship under AKC was Triple Champion Cariad's Kutya Kai Costa, VD (a Vizsla). He finished his Breed Championship in '76, Field in '77, and Obedience in '80, and was trained and handled througout his career by his (amateur) owner, Robert Costa. TITLE NOTATION Certain titles go before the dog's registered name, others go after. Championship titles go before the name; non-championship titles go after the name. There are also orderings within the champion and non-champion titles. If a dog also has a Amateur Field Championship that title is placed in front of its name, in addition to the other titles (e.g., CH), but behind them if they exist. At an AKC event, a dog may be listed only with its AKC-recognized titles. Therefore, it may not have all of its titles listed in the catalogue for the show. Outside of AKC sponsorship, all of the titles that a dog has earned may be listed. _________________________________________________________________ AKC Member Clubs BREED CLUBS Each breed recognized by the AKC has a parent club, which is considered to be the national breed club for that breed. These clubs' main responsibility is maintaining the Standard for their breed, and representing the interests of their breed at AKC meetings by assigning attending delegates. These clubs often also sponsor a national speciaty once a year. If the breed is a working or sporting one, often a national performance event is also sponsored. Different breed clubs operate differently: some coordinate national breed rescue programs, and others do not. Many have educational brochures and Public Education Coordinators to answer the public's questions about the breed. Some clubs are quite open to membership; for example the Golden Retriever Club of America has over 1500 members. On the other hand, the Labrador Retriever Club has less than 700 members (and twice the recorded registrations of Labradors to Goldens!). Membership applications generally require some background in the breed (it could be ownership, showing, or breeding) and the sponsorship of one or two members of the club. In general, you can write to the Corresponding Secretary of the national breed club you are interested in for the exact requirements of membership. There are also many regional breed clubs. These clubs put on regional specialties, promote their breed, coordinate educational efforts in their region and often have a breed rescue program. Many people start out with membership in these programs before gaining membership in the national club, although you should remember that for many people the regional clubs are all they need. Become involved with your regional club and learn more about your breed! It's also a good way to keep track of events in your area that you would like to attend. Many national and regional clubs put out newsletters for their members. REGIONAL KENNEL CLUBS In addition to the breed clubs, there are also regional kennel clubs affiliated with the AKC. The AKC licenses member clubs to put on all breed shows. Depending on their size, most clubs put out one to two shows per year, as well as holding one to several sanctioned matches (practice shows) per year. Local kennel clubs are a good way to network with other dog fanciers and to learn more about breeds besides your own. OBEDIENCE CLUBS Some clubs are licensed to put on just obedience shows. These clubs often have training classes, regular obedience matches, and other benefits for members. Are there any agility clubs yet? All member clubs are listed in the back of AKC's Gazette. _________________________________________________________________ Entering the World of Showing and Breeding Before you do anything else, you should head out to your library and read up as much as you can on your breed before attempting to make contacts. You will present a much more favorable impression if it is clear that you've done some reading and are serious when you come up to ask questions. Be aware that if you're serious about getting into show and possibly breeding, you will be investing literally years of your time. While this information is in the AKC section of the FAQ, most of the following is applicable to anyone desiring to show and breed under the auspices of any Kennel Club. GETTING INTO THE SHOW WORLD You will need to meet and get to know other people in the show arena. This generally involves attending dog shows and talking to the owners (at appropriate times, of course). Joining up with your breed's club also gives you more contacts to learn from. Expect an "apprentice" period as the experienced folks scope you out and decide just how serious you are. This takes patience, but is well rewarded later when you have resources for the questions that will inevitably come up. You might get the opportunity to help out someone who is showing their dogs. This gives you a closeup view of what is involved with your breed and showing. Some good books about showing (AKC-oriented) are: 1. Alston and Vanacore. The Winning Edge. Howell Books. 2. Forsyth, Robert and Jane. Guide to Successful Dog Showing. Howell Books. 3. Hall, Lynn. Dog Showing for Beginners. 1994, Howell Books. 4. Nicholas, Anna Katherine. The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging. Howell Books. 5. Seranne, Ann. The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog. Howell Books. 6. Tietjen, Sari B. The Dog Judge's Handbook. Howell Books. 7. Vanacore, Connie. Dog Showing: an owner's guide. Howell Books. RESPONSIBLE BREEDING How do I go about convincing a breeder that I'm a serious prospect for getting a puppy for show and possible breeding? This can be difficult -- responsible breeders often form a unintentional "club": they are very concerned about their puppies and prefer to sell to people they know or are highly recommended. Also, really good breeders often have long waiting lists for all their puppies that can be years long. This is where your previous leg work in making contacts among the show and breeder in your breed helps out. IT WILL TAKE PATIENCE. The payoff for waiting is much better, although very frustrating. You might "apprentice" yourself to a breeder and go over with the breeder on the next few breedings: why the pair were chosen, what the breeder was hoping to accomplish, etc. And then helping out with the new litter: evaluating it, helping care for them, seeing all this stuff first hand gives you a lot of feedback on whether you have the will to do this yourself. You may find it worth your while to go into co-ownership with a breeder who is willing to be your mentor and coach you through your first steps. Other contracts usually stipulate that you will get the CH and/or CD, etc on your puppy before breeding it. Why are many breeders so difficult about "admitting" new people into their ranks or even just helping them out? Do understand that there are people who renege on their contracts (and start breeding willy-nilly) and so there are breeders who are leery of even sincere people. This is why you should work very hard to make yourself known as someone who is really willing to do this right. It is sometimes difficult to understand just how hard being a responsible breeder is. Usually the new and upcoming breeder gets digruntled with how hard it really is and gets the female spayed anyway, but sometimes they just chuck it all and start breeding without thinking about it. You just have to get your toe in the door. Once you do, watch out for "information overload". Then you will understand why breeders are so cautious. Then when you get really successful, they want you to do your part and help everyone else that wants to give it a shot, or they want help to really nail those people who goof it up for everyone else. What if I just get a puppy and start breeding her? Attempting to short-circuit this process by acquiring a petstore puppy to breed will not work in the sense that no reputable breeder will breed to your dog. You will not get good quality puppies via this route. Most puppy-mill dogs are instantly spottable by their looks and if not, the pedigree will always warn off prospective breeders. Do breeding-quality dogs have to have their CH? Well, yes and no. Of course, opinion is divided on this, even among the reputable breeders. Some good dogs never finish their CH's because of other accidents or constraints. As a breeder, you should know if your dog is finishable. You should know its faults better than any judge that will ever see the dog. It is up to the breeder to understand the standard and to honestly evaluate their own dogs. If you are not qualified to do this, then you need a mentor who can help you out. On the other hand, as a demonstration of good faith and to be sure you understand the work involved, many breeders who sell you such a puppy will want you to have a go at getting a CH. That way you not only get a bit of notice in the area, but you also see what others of that breed look like and how your dogs compare to them in general. It also exposes you to some of the worst ways to complete a dog's title as well as some very nice dogs that just haven't been shown much. This way when you do go to breed, you'll have a better idea of what you are breeding for. What are the responsibilities involved in breeding? It takes quite a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for which bitch. Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not produce any outstanding puppies. The individual dogs and their pedigrees need to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on one side will be complemented by strengths on the other side in the same area. Both dogs need to undergo a battery of health tests to make sure you will not wind up with a litter of affected puppies. You should consider that thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of puppies in each of the more-well-known breeds are registered with the AKC each year. Average or run-of-the-mill litters are simply not needed; more than enough exist. Breeding only the truly outstanding dogs within these popular breeds would still produce more than enough puppies to meet demand. Breeders usually breed for a specific purpose and with each litter they are looking for a puppy with a particular set of characteristics. Some good litters are very uniform, but more often than not, there is only one or two such puppies. As a result, they end up with quite a number of puppies that need to be placed in "pet" homes. Competent breeders either work or show their dogs. If they are not tested in any way, there is no external confirmation of the dog's worth. Even if the breed in question is simply a companion-type dog (e.g., not a sporting, hunting, or other working breed), there should be temperament testing and showing to make sure the dogs are in line with the breed standards. While many breeds of dogs can make good companion dogs, they often do so not because they were directly bred as "companions" but because the traits they have been selected for are also compatible with what is needed for a companion dog. For example, steadiness and trainability are needed for most of the working breeds, but these are also desireable traints for companion dogs. In other words, they make good companion dogs because of the years of breeding for working character and sound structure. Keep in mind these characteristics can be greatly diminished in just a few generations, so each generation needs to be evaluated to make sure that those qualities that come together to produce a good specimen of the breed are still present. _________________________________________________________________ The AKC Telephone Directory Taken from the Gazette, January 1994 issue, page 39: My comments in brackets. These are all the AKC telephone numbers available. 1-800-AKC-TELL AKC Dog laws 24 hour hotline is designed to take calls from individuals and clubs on local dog legislation. Callers should leave their names and numbers. Those with questions will get a call back between 8:30 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Eastern time, Monday through Friday. [The AKC is especially interested in hearing of anti-dog legislation. This phone number is ONLY for dog legislation matters.] (919)233-9767 Registration Information Hours--8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Eastern time. This office is responsible for handling all calls involving any type of registration (including Foreign Registration) question or problem. When you want any AKC registration forms or answers to registration questions this is the office to call. If you are calling about a registration application, keep in mind that the normal processing time is approximately two to three weeks. If you want to check the status of an application you submitted, you must be able to provide the customer service representative with the breeding information on your dog or litter. [All written correspondence should be directed to American Kennel Club, 5580 Centerview Drive, Raleigh, NC 27606.] (212)696-8208 Investigations and Inspections The work of this department involves inspections of recordkeeping and identification practices and investigations into registration rule violations. (212)696-8208 Event Records This is the department that processes and records the official results of all licensed Shows, Obedience, Field Trials, Hunting Tests and Herding Events and issues Certificates of Championship, Obedience, Hunting and Herding Titles. Title certificates are mailed approximately 4 to 6 weeks after the event at which the dog has finished the requirements for the title. If you are inquiring about a title certificate please have the breed, name and number of your dog available, as well as the complete name of the club and the date of the event at which your dog completed the requirements for its title. (212)696-8262 Judging Information If you would like the details about a dog show or obedience trial judge's application, this is the number to call. (212)696-8232 Event Plans Everything having to do with the processing of paperwork for sanctioned and licensed Shows. Obedience and Field Trials and Hunting Tests. (212)696-8276 Obedience, Tracking, Herding and Lure Coursing Department Call this number if you have questions about obedience, tracking, herding or lure coursing regulations and judging requirements. This area also handles lure coursing event schedules and results. (212)696-8286, -8306, -8360 AKC/ACHA Coonhound Department This is the department that processes registrations, pedigrees, hunt and bench show dates, new clubs, bench show and hunt results and championship titles for all Coonhounds. (212)696-8225 By-Laws Inquiries If your club is approved to hold licensed or member dog shows, obedience trials or field trials, and you have a question about your club's constitution or by-laws call this number. (212)696-8207 New Clubs Are you forming a dog club or in the process of becoming fully acredited by AKC? This is the number to call. (212)696-8231 Communications For public relations information, or other ways we can help your club with information or educational services, call this number. (212)696-8333 Gazette, Editorial This is the number to call for everything haveing to do with AKC's monthly magazine, Pure-Bred Dogs/American Kennel Gazette, EXCEPT subscription and advertising. (See following.) (212)696-8260 Advertising For information and rates to advertise in the GAZETTE, EVENTS CALENDAR, or AKC AWARDS, call this number. (919)233-9780 Subscriptions Have a question about your subscription? Want to place an order for an AKC magazine? This is the number to call. Magazines: Pure-Bred Dogs/American Kennel Gazette American Kennel Club Awards American Kennel Club Stud Book Register (919)233-9780 Audio/Visual Programs This is the number to call to order any of AKC's AV programs. All programs are available in VHS format. (212)696-8245 Library Contact AKC's library for specialized research and bibliographic questions. Visiting hours are 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily except Saturday, Sunday and holidays. (212)696-8200 Main Switchboard Use this number if you are uncertain what department or who to call for non-registration related matters. _________________________________________________________________ American Kennel Club FAQ Copyright 1994 by Cindy Tittle Moore, tittle@netcom.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------- This article is Copyright (c) 1994 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in commercial documents without the author's written permission. This article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty. Explicit permission is hereby granted to all humane shelters, animal shelters, city pounds and rescue organizations placing animals to redistribute the material under the conditions above. Cindy Tittle Moore Internet: tittle@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716 --------------------------------------------------------------------------